Yokosuka City, Navy Curry, and the first Samurai from England

The Golden Week holidays (April 29~May 6th) seem long gone though, like last year, my highlight was probably picking green tea and rolling the leaves myself to make tea leaves. Interestingly, the price of tea has skyrocketed in recent years due to the worldwide popularity of matcha, with exports more than doubling. May 2nd, the 88th day since the start of the spring lunar calendar, marked the official arrival of the season for newly harvested tea. However, since it started getting warm in mid-March, green tea harvesting began much earlier in many places. Now, the heat has suddenly ramped up with 1,000 people reportedly hospitalized with heatstroke in the week through May 17th and one elderly woman dying. In Hita City, Oita, temperatures reached 35℃ on May 18th, the earliest ever that the temperature in the city has surpassed the 35-degree mark. Britain too has seen similar crazy temperatures in May; the big difference though is that almost all Japanese households have air-conditioning while very few (15%?) of UK ones do. 

One potential getaway during the dog days of summer is the Miura Peninsula where the coastal sea breezes make the heat much more bearable than inland. Recently, I stayed in a unique little commune-type town atop a hill overlooking Yokosuka (横須賀), a major port which was famously the landing site where Commodore Matthew Perry arrived in 1853, leading to the opening of Japan. Today, the city is most widely known as the 568-acre home of the largest overseas U.S. Naval installation in the world, which it shares with the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force (JMSDF). The city boasts a unique, international atmosphere but is probably most famous in Japan for its culinary staple, Navy Curry, which was adapted from the British Royal Navy in the 19th century. A recent article in the Guardian describes how it "conquered hearts" in Japan to become "a national obsession". Interestingly, the JMSDF now has a tradition of eating curry for lunch every Friday which reminded me of the British tradition of eating fish on a Friday (fish and chip shops apparently double their sales on a Friday!).

For those wanting to stay in the area and sample the food - not only curry but amazing sea food too - I recommend On Stay (bookable on airbnb.jp) located in an area called Tsukimidai (月見台=moon viewing terrace), a former municipal housing complex built in 1960 in the hills of Taura in Yokosuka City (B3 on the map). After the last tenants moved out in 2020 all 58 homes became vacant, but a community revitalization project involving the renovation of these buildings began in 2023, restoring the place into a charming new town with some 40 restaurants, cafes, studios, workshops and boutiques. Reborn as a “Nariwai Living Town” - in Japanese, nariwai means “livelihood” or “one’s way of life,” representing a lifestyle where living, working, and creating are seamlessly integrated - it has become a close community where homes double as small businesses, integrating daily life and work. Personally, I loved the vibe of the place and the unique, idiosyncratic individuals who came from all walks of life but had found their ibasho (居場所), a comfortable, welcoming community where everyone was accepted without judgment, far away from the rat race. 

Finally, before I get too misty eyed about future retirement, let me recommend one historical spot to visit in Yokosuka. Many people are familiar with the story of William Adams who became the first Englishman to reach Japan in 1600, some two hundred and fifty years before Perry. Those who have seen or read Shogun will know him as John Blackthorne, the protagonist in James Clavell's novel who was directly inspired by the English navigator. His Japanese name, Miura Anjin ("The Pilot of Miura"=三浦按針), comes from the estate in Miura (present-day Yokosuka) he was given by the Shogun. Until recently, there was some dispute over where he was buried: Hirado, Nagasaki, not too far from where he originally ran ashore, or Tsukayama Park, Yokosuka, matching his final wishes to be laid to rest looking out over Edo Bay. The latter contains the Anjin-zuka (William Adams Monument), two memorial stone towers for him and his wife (pictured). However, in 2020, researchers from the University of Tokyo confirmed that bone fragments in an urn in Hirado belonged to William Adams making the Yokosuka site a cenotaph - a memorial monument containing no remains - rather than a grave. Nevertheless, it is still moving to visit the site where the first samurai from England spent most of his life. Have you read or seen Shogun? Feel free to add a COMMENT!

NOTE: The Yomiuri Japan News carried a special feature on the Tsukimidai Housing Complex (2026/06/24 page 16) - they must be reading my blog! 

Chanko Sumo Hotpot, Live Wrestling, and Public Humiliation

Temperatures hit a high of 21℃ today which is perfect for hanami (花見) or cherry blossom viewing - picnics under the sakura trees! Tokyo is approaching full bloom right now (map here) with March 28th-April 4th given as the best viewing window, surprisingly earlier than Kyoto or even Fukuoka, which are further south. As I wrote in an earlier post, despite the image of sakura as being deeply symbolic for the Japanese, people attending hanami parties are usually more interested in eating and (especially!) drinking than admiring the blossoms. This is captured in the phrase hana yori dango - literally "(sweet) dumplings over flowers," carrying the general meaning that practical things are more important than aesthetics!

Thanks to S & N for the photo

Cherry blossom season brings hordes of tourists and some might have been lucky enough to catch the end of the Osaka Grand Sumo Tournament (honbasho=本場所), one of six held each year, which ended on March 22nd (pictured). But for those here for the sakura and still yearning to see some live sumo, but who cannot wait for the start of the next basho at Tokyo's Kokugikan (starting May 10th), there is another option: the newly opened Sumo Live Restaurant Hirakuza Ginza Tokyo (Hirakuza Ginza), a unique restaurant with a professional sumo-size dohyo ring where you can watch live sumo bouts featuring veteran wrestlers accompanied by English commentary while enjoying traditional kaiseki cuisine. There is also a sake bar which offers a selection of high-quality sake. See this article in the Yomiuri Japan News for a good overview. 

The venue itself is impressive, with around 150 stepped seats arranged around three sides of the dohyo and a giant screen at the back. While the flashy sound, lighting, and visual effects were a little too gaudy for this Brit - perhaps more in keeping with the entertainment that that one sees at American sporting events - the audience of (almost all?) tourists seemed to be enjoying it. Personally though, I wanted them to tone it down a bit to reflect that sumo is not just a sport but a sacred, spiritual culture rooted in Japanese values such as respect, discipline, humility, and dignity. The show itself though was certainly entertaining, featuring a drum performance during the meal and then introducing sumo principles, exercises (such as the ceremonial leg raising and stomping known as shiko=四股), training, throwing techniques, and rules before some mock bouts. 

The food, as mentioned above, was kaiseki (懐石), traditional Japanese cuisine featuring a number of courses that aims to balance the taste, texture, appearance, and colours of food using seasonal (shun=旬) ingredients. The hassun (八寸) for example, an appetizer to set the seasonal theme, featured an artistic assortment of three bite-sized delicacies (picture bottom) comprised of dried fruits with a creamy tofu and sesame puree (left), grilled millet gluten with sweet miso glaze and poppy seeds (centre), and spinach and chrysanthemum petals steeped in savoury dashi (right). The importance Japanese place on seasonal foods, even today when supermarkets sell foods from all over the world, stands out for me as a key difference between Japanese and British in terms of attitudes towards food. In contrast, the hot pot in the top right is a year round staple, a protein filled stew of fish, meat, and vegetables traditionally served to wrestlers​ to bulk them up known as chanko-nabe.

At the end of the show, there was a lottery for audience members who wanted to ascend to the dohyo, don a sumo fat suit, and try their hand at wrestling with one of the wrestlers. Much to the embarrassment of his companions, British Prof's named was pulled out of the hat! The video below shows British Prof's futile attempts to grab the leg of his opponent before being unceremoniously picked up and dumped outside the ring. Think I need to eat a bit more chanko stew and work on my throwing techniques! Feel free to comment upon my humiliation or share your own in the COMMENTS below. 

Exam Fatigue and Malatang: Japan's Spicy Sichuan Noodle Boom

January in Japan features the most important test for high school students hoping to get into university, a test used by all public and some private universities, known as the Common Test for University Admission (共通テスト). This year, 496,237 people applied for the exam, which was held simultaneously across the nation on Saturday 17th and Sunday 18th, with 813 universities and other educational institutions planning to use the results in their admission processes. Saturday featured geography, history and civics; Japanese language; and foreign languages (including an English listening component) while the subjects tested on Sunday were information (a new subject introduced last year); the natural sciences; and maths. Any mishaps or problems are quickly picked up by the media, so those of us supervising the exams, like Britishprof, have to carefully wade through hundreds of pages of detailed instructions and videos, which cover every eventuality from earthquakes and cheating to projectile vomiting. Test questions and answers appear in major newspapers in full on Monday (pictured)!

After a weekend of mind-numbing invigilation, some comfort food was definitely in order so I went to try Japan's new food craze, malatang (麻辣湯＝マーラータン), a spicy but creamy Chinese street food dish that has taken Japan (and Korea) by storm. High school girls seem to be driving this craze - like many other trends in Japan - and when I went, I was the only guy in the place! A key reason for its popularity is the fun of customisation: you can choose how spicy you want it, what kind of broth to go for, toppings, and, most importantly, the kind of ingredients you want to include. I visited Tokyo Panda Maratan (東京パンダマーラーラン) in Tachikawa: let me walk you through the ordering steps below.

 

1. Take a bowl and tongs and line up (they will make sure you have a seat before starting). When you get to the front choose from a huge variety of ingredients such as meat, seafood, dumplings, vegetables, and tofu - the choice is overwhelming! I would personally recommend the quail eggs, boiled dumplings (gyōza), shrimp, lamb, crab balls, dried bean curd (yuba), and the various mushrooms (enoki, shiitake, and the white, gelatinous, frond-like mushroom known as snow fungus=白木耳). I also noticed they had spam (!) which seemed a bit out of place, despite the fact that it has become an integral part of Okinawan cuisine (here). Warning: take less than you think you want - they expand later in the broth!

2. After piling the ingredients into your bowl - don't take too much! - move over to the cashier who will weigh it. The price depends on the weight: Panda charged ¥400 for 100g (so my 307g cost ¥1228). A bonus is that if it weighs more than 250g they will add 80g of noodles of your choice in your bowl for free, as explained in the orange poster pictured. Once you've paid, the final step is to confirm broth type (usually the standard malatang) and spice level (from 0 for kids to 5 for those with a death-wish). Be careful, this is Sichuan spice and it hits hard so I would definitely recommend starting with level 1 - Britishprof likes spicy food but level one is plenty hot enough!

3. Finally, go back to your seat and wait while they prepare your malatang - they'll bring it to you once it's cooked in the broth, usually just 5 minutes. While you're waiting pick up chopsticks and a spoon, an apron to prevent splashing, and, most importantly, a glass of water. Once your bowl arrives, you can choose from a variety of toppings (pictured), such as garlic, sesame seeds, black vinegar, chopped spring onion, sugar, or chili oil (ラー油). Itadakimasu! If you have any thoughts on Japanese food or requests for covering a particular dish, let me know in the COMMENTS!

Looking Back, Looking Forward: Christmas and New Year in Japan

End of year (nenmatsu) in Japan is an extremely busy time - so much so that BritishProf missed the regular November blog post. My apologies! At university, graduation thesis supervision is the biggest burden - but that is no excuse. Anyway, I'll try to catch up here, starting with the incredible changing colours of the autumn leaves in November, a phenomenon known as kōyō (紅葉) in Japanese. Other countries also admire the fall foliage but I often think that if a country has a specific word for a phenomenon it must be especially culturally significant. It certainly seems so in Japan, with organised tours to some of the most popular spots!

December brings with it Christmas illuminations, music, decorations, and promotions everywhere including the beautiful tree at the university and hot chocolate and churros for the students! As I've written before (here), in terms of food, Christmas in Japan means two things: chicken (not turkey!) and cakes. The former is chiefly due to a smart advertising campaign by Kentucky in the 1970s whose slogan was "Kentucky for Christmas" (クリスマスにはケンタッキー). As for cakes, Christmas cake is not the rich brandy-soaked fruit cake with marzipan and icing popular in the UK but a sponge cake usually with chocolate or strawberries. On Christmas Eve, the basement of department stores (depachika) - where the grocery section is found - is usually horribly busy with crowds jostling to secure the best cake before they sell. After that, Christmas ends abruptly: Christmas Day (25th) is a regular working day in Japan and all Christmas decorations magically disappear. The British concept of the 12 days of Christmas with Christmas ending on January 6th is distinctly odd for most Japanese!

How successful has the blog been this year? In actual fact, 2025 was the most successful year ever, with over 105,000 views and two broken records: the most views for a single month (September with 24,379) and the most views for a single day (October 23rd with 2,107).

Blog Views (2025)

To put this in perspective, since the blog started back in 2017 it has enjoyed a slow but steady climb - the all time total number of views is now over 426,000 - but as the graph below shows, the last two years have been something else. Thank-you!  

All Time Blog Views (2017-2025)

If you want to look back, as is the tradition at this time of the year, you can see the Top 4 All Time Popular Posts listed on the page you are now reading!

Talking of looking back (furikaeru=振り返る in Japanese) the Japanese do that as much as anyone else, but they also enjoy "forget the year" (bōnenkai=忘年会) parties which tend to involve copious amounts of sake. There are many other unique end of year traditions. Unlike in the UK, where spring cleaning is the norm, in Japan the major house cleaning takes places now (ōsōji=大掃除). Japanese people don't send Christmas cards but instead send new year postcards known as nengajō (年賀状) which all arrive simultaneously on January 1st! Returning to one's - or if married one's husband's - home town for New Year is typical in Japan, though recent years have seen the rise of "separate homecoming" (separēto kisei=セパレート帰省) where husbands and wives return to their respective hometowns (thereby reducing the inevitable friction with the in-laws!). Japanese also love playing games at new year, particularly karuta playing cards - named after the Portuguese word for letter or card - which involves matching one half of a card, which is read out aloud, with its corresponding pair. And a visit to the local shrine or temple (hatsumōde=初詣) - either soon after midnight on the 1st, or over the following two days - to make their prayers and wishes is a new year staple.

Food wise, the traditional food eaten during the New Year's holidays from January 1st to 3rd is called osechi (おせち料理) and consists of various items which symbolise longevity and health, such as the "U" shaped shrimp which is said to resemble a bent old person's back. Mochi (餅) or sticky rice cakes are probably one of the most popular snacks - see here and here for past blogposts on eating and making your own! Finally, in terms of TV viewing, the Kōhaku Uta Gassen (紅白歌合戦) or "Red and White Song Contest" in which the top singers of the year split into teams of red (women) and white (men) and vie for the votes of audience and judges has been the traditional go-to show for New Year's Eve. Recently, though, young people have been shunning this for the many comedy shows and special manzai (stand-up) performances broadcast during the New Year's holiday to celebrate the tradition of "first laughter" - the precursor to this comedy bonanza is the prestigious M-1 Grand Prix Manzai competition final which was broadcast on December 21st this year.

Finally, in terms of memorable stories from 2025, these have to include the selection of Takaichi as Japan's first female prime-minister, the hottest summer on record, the stunning success of the Osaka-Kansai Expo which attracted over 25 million visitors, and the surging food (especially) rice prices. For me personally, though, the story which I cannot forget is the rapid rise of Japan's far-right Sanseito Party following the July House of Councillor's Election, something which marked a frightening xenophobic shift in tone in discussions on migration and "foreigners" in Japan. My paper discussing the reasons for the dramatic emergence of a party which many have likened to Reform UK and Germany's AfD should be out soon - expect a serious blog post at the start of 2026! In the meantime, let me wish all you loyal readers a very happy new year - or as the Japanese say, yoi otoshi o (良いお年を)! As always COMMENTS are most welcome.

Travelling on the Driverless Yurikamome Train: From Toyosu to Daiba over the Rainbow Bridge

After the hottest summer on record, it finally looks as if autumn is here, and evidence of that are the red spider lilies, known as higan-bana (彼岸花), sprouting up everywhere. Indeed, the name of the flower itself - higan - comes from the fact that they bloom around autumn equinoctial week which is called aki no o higan (秋のお彼岸) in Japanese. The middle day of equinoctial week comes on the day of the autumn equinox known as shūbun no hi = 秋分の日 (a national holiday that fell on September 23rd this year). Higan refers to the Buddhist holiday celebrated in Japan during both the spring and autumn equinox. Buddhism is of course closely related to death in Japan - funerals are Buddhist and graveyards are found in temples - so it is no surprise that the lily is also known as the flower of death. This image is strengthened by its presence in graveyards and at funerals: being poisonous to small animals they used to be planted around graveyards in Japan's pre-cremation days to stop the dead bodies being eaten (today, of course, cremation is obligatory in Japan). But whatever the deathly connotations they have, they are a welcome sight after a scorchingly hot summer.

The cooler weather means more opportunities for getting out and about and I enjoyed visiting two popular spots in recent weeks, Toyosu, home to the biggest fish market in the world, and Odaiba, the popular entertainment and dating spot, both sited on an artificial reclaimed man-made island in Tokyo Bay. To get to both places you need to take the Yurikamome Line, an automated, elevated, driverless train which runs from Shimbashi, travelling over the marvellous Rainbow Bridge and offering great views from the large windows. Yurikamome actually means black-headed gull, a common sight in Tokyo Bay and also the official bird of the Tokyo metropolitan government!

 

Taking the Yurikamome Line - officially called the Tokyo Waterfront New Transit Waterfront Line - from Shimbashi, over the Rainbow Bridge, the first stop is Daiba (台場). While the station is called Daiba, this refers only to one district of the island; most people use Odaiba which refers to the entire Tokyo Waterfront Secondary City Center (東京臨海副都心). Despite having various restaurant and entertainment options, Odaiba itself is surprisingly quiet, though it seems to be trying hard to redefine itself as a romantic mecca for couples and is loaded with heart-themed photo opportunities and illuminations. Recent efforts to attract more visitors include plans for constructing one of the largest fountains in the world, a 2.6 billion yen (!) fountain to be completed by March 2026. Mysteriously, there is also a large Statue of Liberty here, 1/7th the size of the original!

 

Continuing on the Yurikamome Line from Odaiba, the final stop is Toyosu. Tsukiji, the famous fish market originally founded in 1935 had limited scope for growth due to its central position near Ginza, so the market moved to Toyosu in October 2018. Today, the new Toyosu Market is almost twice the size of Tsukiji, making it the biggest fish market in the world. Like Tsukiji, it is still possible to see the famous tuna auctions (free but you need to book early!) and to enjoy a breakfast of super fresh sushi or sashimi at one of the many restaurants which moved over from Tsukiji. One of my favourite snacks sold at the various street stalls is not actually fish but the delicious rolled egg (tamago-yaki); they say that you can tell a good sushi restaurant by the quality of the tamago-yaki! I recommend Marutake for an unbeatable dashi-taste that apparently has remained unchanged over its 100 years of history.

 

After eating your fill in Odaiba and Toyosu, my personal favourite thing to do is to get a hotel room with a view of the Rainbow Bridge which looks spectacular at night. Two recommendations are the Intercontinental Tokyo Bay and the (slightly cheaper) Grand Nikko Tokyo Daiba. Just be sure to book a room high up with a clear view of the bridge. Why not tell me in the COMMENTS the location of your favourite go-to place to unwind, rest, and treat yourself - in Tokyo or anywhere in Japan!

Doraemon and Dorayaki in Miyashita Park

Since returning to the Japan from the UK at the end of July, two new all-time summer highs have been set, first on July 30th in Tamba, Hyogo (41.2°C) south of Tokyo quickly followed a few days later, on August 5th, by a record 41.8°C  in Isesaki City, Gunma Prefecture, north of Tokyo. Since then, there have a record ten consecutive days of 35°C or higher here in Tokyo, what the Japanese call mōshobi (猛暑日). Moshōbi are typically accompanied by "tropical" nights where the temperature doesn't drop below 25°C - though, interestingly, outside Japan this is defined differently as 20°C! The high temperatures during the day are accompanied by the shrill buzzing of the cicadas - a constant natural symphony that marks the height of summer, like a warning alarm to stay indoors. The picture shows a cicada (right) who has just crawled out of its larval skin (nuke-gara in Japanese) leaving an amazingly complete exoskeleton behind (with a zipper-like slit running right across the back).

Poster protesting Nike buy out 2008

I did venture out into the heat of central Tokyo once - blog material has to be collected! - and visited Miyashita Park in central Tokyo. Miyashita Park (宮下公園) is one of the few green spaces in Shibuya. The park has a chequered history, being moved onto man-made land in 1964 at the time of the Olympics before being bought out and renamed by Nike in 2008, something which was controversial at the time due to charging fees and clearing of the homeless (here). In 2017 it closed for redevelopment before reopening in 2020 as a shopping complex with the park, cafe, hotel, and sports facilities on the roof - now all accessible for free. The sports facilities in particular are impressive with a climbing wall, skateboard park, futsal courts, and a beach volleyball arena.

One interesting landmark on the roof is a bronze statue of Doraemon labelled “Doraemon: Door to the Future” (ドラえもん みらいのとびら）with visitors invited to "walk through to follow their dreams to an exciting future." The four-meter tall monument, which features ten other characters in addition to seven gadgets including the famous Dokodemo (Anywhere) Door which allows you to travel wherever you like, was created to mark the 50th anniversary of the “Doraemon” manga series that started its run in 1970 (here). Doraemon, a male robotic cat from the future, is one of the most beloved characters in Japan - he was appointed the country's anime ambassador in 2008 - and the TV series has been broadcast in fifty-five countries (including India, the UK, and the US). Doraemon is the highest grossing movie franchise in Japan and, alongside Pokemon and One Piece, is a global franchise: over 300 million copies of the manga have been sold worldwide and some forty films have collectively grossed over $1.8 billion. The franchise is also said to generate over $500 million in annual global retail sales from merchandise and other products.

The localisation of the show - the way it underwent cultural adaptation to better fit with local audiences - was interesting: names were changed, gender stereotypes were tweaked (scenes of boys crying were cut in the US for example), and Japanese food was swapped with local equivalents (such as pizza and popcorn in the US). One food that was originally cut but made a return after a popular outcry was Doraemon's favorite dorayaki (どら焼き) - a traditional Japanese sweet of azuki red bean paste sandwiched between two small pancakes, sometimes with cream. It was given a variety of English names from "fudgy pudgy pie" in the early manga, to "yummy buns" and "dora-cakes/bean jam buns" in the TV series.

Doraemon holding a plate of dorayaki

For Japanese fans, however, changing the name of the eponymous dorayaki is sacrilegious since Doraemon's fondness for them forms a central part of many of the storylines and key scenes.  Dorayaki themselves have been said to reflect the essence of Japanese culture in various ways: as a symbol of Japanese hospitality and gift-giving, an example of how Japan integrates ancient traditions with modern innovation, a reminder of one's first love, and a symbol of positive emotions like warmth, kindness, and affection (here). Fans can eat the traditional sweet snack, as well as various other character themed dishes, at Doraemon F's Kitchen (ドラえもん F'sキッチン) in the Miyashita Park shopping centre below the park itself. When I went there was quite a queue, particularly Asian tourists. There is in fact a Doraemon museum in Kawasaki called the Fujiko・F・Fujio Museum named after the author who lived there. Please let me know in the COMMENTS if you want me to visit - I'd be interested to know just popular the robot cat with no ears actually is outside of Japan!

Shin-Okubo: Tokyo's Vibrant Korea Town

 

June 10th marked the official start of the rainy season in the Tokyo area, but as this article discusses, we've seen relatively little rain and instead some very hot days including the year’s first “extremely hot day” known in Japanese as a mōshobi (猛暑日), a day when the temperature reaches 35℃ or above. The high temperatures, accompanied by heatstroke alerts, in a month when the weather is usually pleasant bodes ill for the months of July and August. But at least the flowers are blooming when they should - as written previously, the rainy season always coincides with the flowering of beautiful hydrangeas (ajisai), particularly in blue and purple, as pictured above (either side of a brightly coloured lily).

Man made disasters, such as global warming, are one thing, but Japan also has more than its fair share of natural disasters. The March 2011 Tohoku Earthquake (3.11) was the strongest in Japan's recorded history and the 4th biggest worldwide. Tokyo itself is way overdue: the Great Kanto Earthquake was in 1923 and the chances of a big one hitting the capital in the next 30 years is said to be in the region of 80% with an estimated death toll of 300,000. One comic book has recently gone viral because it predicts the actual date of the next big one. In the 1999 manga, The Future I Saw (Watashi ga Mita Mirai), Ryo Tatsuki, gives July 5th as the date of the next mega quake. The fact that Tatsuki also correctly predicted the March 2011 disaster has caused a slew of cancellations, especially from Asian tourists. Completely coincidentally, my trip to the UK is booked for July 4th...

South Korean tourists are the 2nd largest group of foreign tourists in Japan and many do seem to be asking whether it is safe to travel (here). Japan has a complicated history with Korea, particularly following Japan's annexation of the country in 1910 and the ensuing period of colonial control. Even since the normalisation of diplomatic ties in 1965 - this year is the 60th anniversary - relations have been rocky, though in recent years feelings of affiniity between the two countries have definitely grown. In contrast to the population of Korean oldcomers - those who came or were forcibly brought to Japan in the pre-war period and were either unable to or chose not to go back after the end of the war - newcomer Koreans started to increase in the 1980s, with many, especially exchange students, settling in Shin-Okubo, Tokyo's Korean Town, just one train stop from Shinjuku. The South Korean drama boom starting in 2004 spurred interest in Shin-Okubo, and the second, third, and fourth waves (han'ryū=韓流), centering on K-pop and Korean film and Netflix dramas, only heightened interest in Korean pop culture and the popularity of "Little Seoul."

Today, Shin-Okubo is a remarkably vibrant place, a hub for South Korean culture, full of Korean street food, restaurants, (super)markets, convenience stores, cafes, bars/clubs, stores with K-pop merchandise, and Korean make-up and fashion shops - not to mention street performers. Just turn right when you exit the station but be prepared for a mass of humanity as you crawl along the street - it gets really crowded, especially at weekends. But those who associate Shin-Okubo with only Korean culture may be surprised to learn that the area also has large South-East and South Asian populations. In particular, the Nepalese community has been growing rapidly in recent years, so much so that the area is also sometimes referred to as "Little Nepal" (together with the area north of Asagaya). I visited the Nepalese restaurant Rato Mato which blew me away both with the quality of the food and the prices. So, which would you choose - Korean, Nepalese, or something else? Let us know in the COMMENTS!

Japanese Green Tea and the Global Matcha Boom: The Shift from Drinking to Eating

The Golden Week holiday of early May now seems a long way off, but one of my best memories was picking tea leaves in a local tea field (ochabatake), making my own hand-rolled tea at home (temomicha), and enjoying shincha (新茶) brewed from the first or youngest leaves of the season (hatsu-zumi=初摘み). Shincha - literally "new tea" - is of unparalleled quality, bright green in colour with a sweeter taste than regular green tea, and characterised by a vibrant aroma and a hint of umami. As someone who drinks green tea every day - sometimes from vending machines but mostly in tea bag form - the taste of properly brewed shincha was something of a revelation; in Britain it would be the difference between a teabag in a paper cup (link) and a proper cuppa brewed in a pot. The pictures below show how to make the perfect cup of shincha: note the importance of letting the boiling water first cool to at least 80℃ before pouring over the leaves in the pot and also the short brewing time, just thirty seconds or so.

❶ Pour boiling water into cups or a special yuzamashi cooling pot ❷ Put a spoonful of tea leaves into the (unwarmed) pot ❸ Once the water temperature has dropped below 80℃ (70℃ for a sweeter cup) pour into the pot (kyūsu) ❹ Wait 30 seconds and enjoy!

While sencha (煎茶) - non-powdered green leaf tea - has traditionally been the mainstay harvest, recent years have seen a big shift to tencha (甜茶) - powdered green tea that is the raw material for matcha - thanks to the global matcha boom. According to the Japanese Association of Tea Production, tencha production almost tripled between 2008 and 2023. While sencha is grown without covering, tencha requires reduced sunlight so, as can be seen in the top left of the picture, tea fields need to be covered in black sheets as harvest time approaches. 

Picking tea leaves at Sugimotoen. A special thank-you to Kumiko for letting me join on the fly!

The demand for matcha has been driven by a shift from drinking matcha - think of the creamy, slightly bitter umami drink made popular by the tea ceremony - to eating products made from it. The trigger for this was not a Japanese company but an American one: Haagen-Dazs' 1996 introduction of green tea ice cream - made, in a stroke of genius, just like shincha, from the first leaves of the season (初摘み茶葉) - was a massive hit. Today, as the visual here and picture below shows, there are matcha cookies, cakes, chocolate, gelato, jelly, pancakes, parfaits, and even chewing gum, not to mention the various new types of drinks such as lattes, cola, cocktails, and smoothies. Packed with antioxidants, the health benefits - especially in comparison with coffee - are pretty undeniable: I honestly can't remember the last time I caught a cold!

Which brings me back to my own tea-making experience at home. After picking the tea leaves, and enjoying a green tea and yōkan jelly break with the other pickers, the owner gave me a quick introduction to the factory and explained the process of tea production. Put simply the leaves are steamed, kneaded, and dried, removing all moisture and leaving the kind of tea leaves we are familiar with. As this video shows, the principle is the same even when making hand-rolled tea (temomicha) at home, so I headed back with my 130g of fresh leaves and gave it a go. After repeatedly steaming (in the microwave) and kneading, I eventually got something resembling tea leaves, but they were still a little moist - the factory dries them in 80℃ heat for 20-25 minutes - and as a result the aroma of the tea was on the weak side. Any thoughts on green tea and the matcha boom? Let me know in the COMMENTS below!