Wednesday, 26 February 2025

Food Culture in Japan: Rising Prices, Buddhist Breakfasts, and Hospital Cuisine

February in Japan has seen record snowfalls in the North though Tokyo has only experienced a few flurries. It's still very cold though so keeping the aircon on high and snuggling under the kotatsu - a low heated table covered with a quilt - is definitely the way to go. But while people everywhere are struggling with soaring energy bills, the Japanese have been particularly hard hit after being spoiled by a long period of deflation - starting in the late 1990s and continuing for some 15 years - followed by very low inflation (0.5%) until relatively recently. Coupled with the weak yen and higher import costs, the result has been more and more people struggling with daily living expenses - what the Japanese call seikatsuhi (生活費) - amid price increases (ne'age=値上げ) in everything from energy to food (recent video here). Rice in particular has skyrocketed, with the price of a 5kg bag almost doubling for some brands. Just how many people are having a hard time was brought home to me the other day when I passed the Tobu Supermarket in Nishikokubunji, Tokyo, and saw a long line of people queueing round the block during a special 98 yen (52p/66¢) "lifestyle support" (生活応援)campaign. Personally, BritishProf now avoids buying carrots, cabbage, broccoli, and lettuce because they've just become too expensive.

For those looking to save money on food, one approach is to have a big healthy breakfast and eat less or even nothing later - many Buddhists, for example, practice fasting from noon to sunrise the following day. The Buddhist belief that one shouldn't take a life means that many Buddhists follow a lacto-vegetarian diet - no eggs, meat, or fish - though some Buddhists do eat meat and other animal products, as long as the animals aren’t slaughtered specifically for them. If you want to sample some Buddhist cuisine of the latter, less strict, variety, I strongly recommend the 18-dish breakfast at Tsukiji Hongwanji Buddhist Temple in Tsukiji, Tokyo (reservations essential). While it does include duck, octopus, rolled egg (tamago-yaki), and salted salmon/pollack roe (ikura/mentaiko), for the most part this is vegetarian and includes rice porridge (okayu) and delicious miso soup. Unfortunately, even this breakfast has not been immune to the price rises: the once unlimited rice refills will no longer be free from March 2025 "due to the recent rise in the cost of rice and other ingredients."

As the Buddhist breakfast illustrates, Japanese cuisine typically consists of multiple small dishes creating a very balanced, varied, and nutritious meal. A friend of mine recently spent a week in hospital and given the terrible reputation of hospital food in the UK  I was curious if the Japanese did a better job. As you might have guessed, the answer was a resounding "yes", with typically 4 to 5 healthy dishes cooked from scratch (if a little cold) accompanied with nutritional information. For example, the picture below shows an evening meal of rice, deep-fried cutlet with cheese, seaweed salad, thinly sliced stir-fried radish, and roasted green tea comprising a very low 584 kcal - and only 2.2g of salt. Even better, each meal costs only 490 yen (£2.59/$3.28) - a big plus in these days of sky-high food prices.

While the emphasis seems to be on more "traditional" Japanese food, reflecting the fact that patients tend to be older, meals did include bread, pasta, keema curry, and even a chocolate dessert for Valentine's Day! For more detailed pictures and descriptions of typical hospital fare check out the link here; there is also a fascinating Guardian article comparing hospital food - including Japan and the UK - from around the world. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on healthy eating, Japanese cuisine, and hospital food in the COMMENTS!

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