Sunday 2 October 2022

Visiting Yokohama (1) : Autumn in Japan's Most Cosmopolitan Port City

Autumn approaches and temperatures vary wildly here in Japan. A couple of weeks ago a cool front made things decidedly chilly, but this weekend has been a perfect 29℃, with a nice autumn breeze and none of the horrible summer humidity. This unseasonal heat doesn't match the calendar: today (October 1st) is traditionally called koromo-gae, the day for changing your wardrobe from summer to winter clothing! Typhoons have hit almost weekly recently, bringing torrential rains and much damage down south. It is the season of crickets (suzumushi) chirping quietly (replacing the intense buzz of the summer cicadas) and also the period when the stunning Red Spider Lily (higanbana) blooms briefly. The change in the season is also reflected in the food available - Japanese are much more conscious about seasonal foods than the British - and the supermarket is full of autumn staples: matsutake mushrooms, chestnuts (kuri), Pacific saury (sanma =秋刀魚 - the fish name itself contains the kanji for autumn!), sweet potato, pumpkin, and persimmons (kaki), the "divine fruit" of autumn. 

In the university at least, autumn is also the season of non-stop work, known evocatively as jitensha-sōgyō (自転車操業), literally "bicycle operations" based on the analogy that if one stops pedaling (working) even for a minute you'll fall off! But on the other hand, it is a beautiful season to be out and about and a little rest is definitely needed so at the risk of falling irrevocably behind on the work I took a short one-night break in Yokohama. Yokohama is Japan's second largest city - bigger than Osaka - and is found just south of Tokyo, on Tokyo Bay. The cosmopolitan port city is a tourist mecca, an economic, cultural, and high-tech industrial hub famous for its Chinatown, museums, (amusement) parks, and shopping. The most visible landmark is undoubtedly the Cosmo Clock 21 100m high Ferris wheel in Yokohama Cosmoworld which even boasts two transparent "see-through" gondolas (and a view of Mount Fuji if you're lucky!). The night-time illuminations are not to be missed!

We decided to try out the Intercontinental Yokohama Grand, located on a pier and famous for its spectacular views over the bay. The hotel itself is shaped like a sleek yacht under sail (or a segment of a tangerine?) and is a short walk from Minato Mirai Station. The cosmopolitan feel and sense of history are everywhere, no surprise given that Yokohama was the first gateway to trade with the west: Commodore Perry landed here, with a fleet of warships, in 1854 to present US demands for a trade agreement, persuading the Japanese government to end its national seclusion policy and sign what were known as the "unequal treaties". Still wanting to limit contact between Japanese and Western "barbarians", the new port was built near the tiny isolated then-village of Yokohama. The original trading port was a two-pier wharf known as Zō-no-hana (elephant's trunk), named so because of its shape, and the wharf remains to this day. Later, state-of-the-art warehouses built from red brick sprang up, the red-brick (hardly ever used to construct houses in Japan) a symbol of the international nature of Yokohama. Red brick is synonymous with the "foreign"; indeed, I remember visiting an elementary school in rural Japan once and the first question I was asked was whether I lived in a red-brick house!

One of the famous red-brick warehouses (赤レンガ倉庫) with the Yokohama Landmark Tower, the 2nd tallest building in Japan, visible in the background

There's so much more to write about Yokohama, so I'm going to leave it here for now and continue next time. In particular, I'm going to focus on Chinatown, perfect timing give the two countries are now celebrating 50 years of diplomatic relations! In the meantime, why not leave a COMMENT - which would you prefer, a mountain view (Mount Fuji) or a sea view (Tokyo Bay)?

11 comments:

Unknown said...

Aaaa, loved this post and not just because I lived in Yokohama, and I too have stayed in the Intercontinental Yokohama Grand. I look forward to your Chinatown post, where I used to buy a lot of clothes.

I had never heard the Zō-no-hana origen story. and Holy Moly, 170 years ago, Yokohama was just a couple of fisherfolks' huts. Wow. There's so many places on the planet with that sort of story I guess .... ebbs and flows. Guess we'll see what happens ... but we'll probably hear from you first. Can't wait!

Unknown said...

Aaaa, love this post and not just because I used to live in Yokohama and I too have stayed at the Intercontinental Yokohama Grand. Can't wait for Chinatown, I used to shop there a lot. And I had never heard the Zō-no-hana" origen story. I always learn something new from you, A British prof in Japan, thank you. .

Chris Burgess said...

Thanks for the love! Yes, it's amazing how trade with the outside world transformed places. Even Tokyo, today the most populous urban area in the world, was originally a fishing village named Edo!

Lesley Phillips said...

Hi Chris.
I can relate to what you say about the weather. Here in the UK it keeps changing too. I put my summer clothes away and started wearing my jumpers,then it went warm again and I had to get the T shirts out again !

Love the illuminations, although with the current energy crisis across the world, they may have to be toned down . UK Blackpool illuminations are on at the moment but I bet it's costing a fortune as the energy prices have just increased dramatically from 1st October.

I would like to see a sea view of Tokyo Bay next time.

Take care. x

Chris Burgess said...

Yes, global warming is certainly messing up traditional concepts of the seasons. High of 31 today in Tokyo! Regarding the illuminations, I wondered as well about lighting up the Ferris wheel, given the current energy crisis - electricity bills have risen about 20% in the past year for households here, even more in the UK I think?

Michael Camilleri said...

Maybe too late but I'd prefer a sea view!

Chris Burgess said...

Never too late to comment Michael - comments remain open indefinitely! Any favourite seaviews or holiday spots in Japan to recommend to the other readers?

Richard said...

I always love seeing Fuji San when I am in Japan. My wife and I saw it on our wedding day in Tokyo! So I would prefer a view of the mountain rather than the sea.

Chris Burgess said...

Yes, there's something very special about Mount Fuji - it's very much a symbol of luck and good fortune, and you were lucky to see it from Tokyo on your wedding day! Would definitely recommend climbing it - a very spiritual and humbling experience.

Michael said...

One of the best holidays I've taken in Japan was to the Nagano area in summer. I realise that isn't the season most people associate with the place but that was part of the charm. If you're looking to beat the (muggy) heat of Tokyo or Osaka, I recommend it. Also a good spot to visit if castles are your thing as Matsumoto Castle is one of the best.

Chris Burgess said...

Thanks Michael. This is turning into the longest thread ever - everyone loves travel recommendations! Matsumoto Castle is certainly one of the best castles in Japan - I would add Himeji Castle to that list. Not a castle, but another interesting place to visit is Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama (Shikoku), Japan's oldest hot spring bath!