The Month of Death: Living Perfect Days in Japan in August

August is a month of death in Japan both remembered and real. Real not only because of the searing temperatures that lead to heat stroke but also because of the typhoons that sweep through the archipelago this time of year. Earlier in the month, Typhoon Ampil (No. 7) passed along the east coast of Japan causing many train and plane cancellations and disrupting the Bon holiday's return travel rush. And as I write, Typhoon Shanshan is causing devastation down in Kyushu. On top of that, a magnitude 7 earthquake struck off Miyazaki Prefecture on August 8th, triggering the first ever official week-long "megaquake" advisory as fears grew that this was the precursor of the long-expected super quake in the Nankai Trough (南海トラフ). Amid these natural disasters, the man-made disasters of Hiroshima (August 6th) and Nagasaki (August 9th) were commemorated, followed by a solemn ceremony on August 15th marking 79 years since Emperor Hirohito announced Japan's surrender (known as Shūsen-kinenbi or "memorial day for the end of the war" =終戦記念日).

The traditional Obon (お盆）holiday itself is rooted in death. Running August 13th to 16th this year, it is one of the three major holidays in Japan. Whereas some Japanese take the opportunity to travel abroad, many travel back to their hometown (furusato =古里・故郷) to honour their ancestors who are said to return to their earthly homes for a brief visit during this period. To guide the spirits of these ancestors, one often sees lanterns hung in front of houses - the pictures show scenes from my local lantern festival (灯りまつり) - as well as cucumber "horses" (shōryōuma =精霊馬）and aubergine/eggplant "oxen" (shōryōushi =精霊牛). The former are said to guide the dead back quickly while the latter, being more slow-moving, take their time helping them return to the underworld (lanterns are also floated in rivers at the end of Obon for the same purpose).

In sum, August in Japan is a time to contemplate life and death. Here, I'm going to introduce a film I watched recently which made me think a lot about how and why we live: Perfect Days (パーフェクト・デイズ) directed by Wim Wenders and starring the famous Japanese actor Koji Yakusho (who won best actor at Cannes for his performance as Hirayama). Billed as "a work of fiction with the feel of a documentary," the movie follows the daily life of Hirayama who cleans public toilets in Shibuya, Tokyo. All the toilets featured in the movie are drawn from the 17 toilets created by famous architects, creators, and designers known collectively as the Tokyo Toilet Project. The Project unashamedly promotes toilets "as a symbol of Japan's world-renowned hospitality (omotenashi) culture" and the focus is very much on accessibility, comfort, and safety. For example, this is the thinking behind the two "transparent" toilets (which turn opaque when locked): the technology allows people to easily check cleanliness and whether anyone is inside, two of the things people tend to worry about when entering a public toilet. Check out this BBC video for a more detailed overview of the Tokyo Toilet Project and visit the sites in the film (not only toilets!) using the interactive map here.

L to R: Nabeshima Shoto Park toilets, (the transparent) Yoyogi Fukumachi Mini Park toilets, and Yoyogi Hachiman toilets

Getting back to the film, Hirayama leads a very simple life with a fixed daily routine that sees very little interaction with others. He is a humble man who carries out his job diligently and with dedication, taking pride in his work. Interestingly, surveys constantly show diligence (kinben=勤勉）as the trait Japanese see as most typical of their national character (graph here in Japanese - click on #1). There is so much to take from Hirayama: the importance of noticing things around you, the value of connecting with nature, the importance of appreciating the current moment, the merits of small things and daily rituals, and the peace brought by speaking less and reflecting more. There is a gentle optimism, a tranquility about Hirayama, his life, and his philosophy that kept reminding me of mindfulness, with its emphasis on slowing down, analogue over digital, simplifying life, paying attention to the here and now, taking in your surroundings one thought at a time, and the cultivation of curiosity, wonder, and awe.

Jaz walking in the komorebi

Interestingly, the film was originally slated to be called Komorebi (木漏れ日). At the end of the film - after the credits - this Japanese word is translated as "the shimmering of light and shadows that is created by leaves swaying in the wind which exists only once, at that moment." In the film, this concept comes into its own during Hirayama's lunch break, which he takes every day at Yoyogi Hachimangu (代々木八幡宮) Shrine, a hidden oasis of calm in the middle of Tokyo. Hirayama always has simple white bread convenience store sandwiches and milk for lunch and takes a single picture every day on his disposable camera, trying to capture the perfect komerebi amongst the towering trees. Check out the video below of me trying to capture Haruyama's experience - sandwiches and all! COMMENTS are, as always, most welcome - let me hear your take on the film (if you've seen it) or indeed on any of the themes raised in the post.